‘I look at it as an honor,’ says John Louis, who continues to renew Arturo’s patent on puffy tacos but has never pursued imitators. Over the years, the Lopez brothers have engaged in good-natured competition over whose puffy tacos are the best in the city, and there’s still an amiable debate over who really named the puffy taco. But, in the end, blood is thicker than—well, salsa.

‘They get praise, and we get praise, but it doesn’t make a difference because it’s more about where the puffy taco came from,’ Jaime says. ‘It came from our parents working hard and passing it onto us, and we’re going to continue it.’”

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